Discovering Seoul, Korea: A First-Time Visit • Airmacs Aviation

Seoul is the bustling capital of the Republic of Korea, usually known simply as South Korea to distinguish it from its sinister neighbour to the north.

We made our first visit to Seoul recently and were impressed by its relaxed and calm ambience, its cleanliness and the ease with which Western visitors can navigate the city.

In Korea, ancient traditions blend seamlessly with cutting-edge technology. With its dynamic neighbourhoods, rich history and culinary delights, Seoul is an unforgettable travel destination. Whether you’re drawn to its historical landmarks, vibrant culture or thriving food scene, you will not be disappointed with what the city has to offer.

Getting There

Travelling to Seoul is convenient, thanks to two major airports: Incheon International Airport (ICN) and Gimpo International Airport (GMP). Incheon is the primary international gateway, renowned for its modern facilities and efficient services. We flew with Qantas from Sydney, arriving at ICN’s Terminal 1, which is conveniently located close to a number of airport hotels, for those who want to crash before tackling the ride into town. Korean Air uses Terminal 2, which is a little more remote.

From the airport, visitors can take the Airport Railroad Express (AREX) to reach the city centre in about 45 minutes. Alternatively, shuttle buses, taxis and private transfers are readily available, but travelling by road can take twice as long as the express train. We rode from ICN to our city hotel with Welcome Pickups, which we have used in a number of cities worldwide and found them to be very reliable if a little more expensive than most other forms of transport.

Once in the city, Seoul’s public transport system is efficient and user-friendly. The Metro or subway network is extensive, with signs in English, making it easy for visitors to navigate. Purchasing a T-money card is recommended, as it allows seamless travel on buses and subways throughout the city. However, Seoul is a very pedestrian-friendly city and we walked everywhere that was within walking distance.

Where to Stay

Choosing the right neighbourhood is key to enhancing your stay in Seoul. Here are three options:

Myeongdong: Known for shopping and street food, this area is a favourite for tourists and is where we stayed. If you want to be close to the centre of things, this is the place to be. With numerous hotels, restaurants, department stores and street markets it’s convenient for shopping, dining and accessing public transport.

Hongdae: Home to a youthful, artistic vibe, Hongdae is famous for its nightlife, live music and trendy cafes. It’s a great place to experience the city’s youthful energy. It is situated on the western side of the city.

Gangnam: For those looking for luxury, Gangnam offers high-end everything and yet more shopping. This area is also known for its nightlife and upmarket dining options. Gangnam is south of the Han river and is the super-trendy part of the city – lots of new money, designer clothes, flashy cars, luxury apartments – but also very good hotels at quite reasonable prices.

Generally speaking, though, the main city and most of the places you’ll want to see are north of the river, although a cruise down the Han is a nice way to see the best of both sides.

Each neighbourhood has its own charm and offers a variety of accommodation options, from luxury hotels to budget-friendly hostels.

We chose Myeongdong because it was recommended by friends, and it was a good choice. We stayed at the Lotte City Hotel, which we liked for its convenient location and range of amenities. If you don’t want to take breakfast in the restaurant, which is quite expensive, there is a delightful café on the ground floor, as well as a 7-Eleven convenience store open 24/7.

The metro station Euljiro3-ga is just a short walk from the hotel, as are several tourist attractions. Just around the corner from us was the huge Lotte Department Store and, in complete contrast, several local markets.

Many of the streets are decorated with colourful monuments, images and ornaments, and street performers can often be seen.

I encountered something in our hotel room that I had never seen before but which, apparently, is common in Korea – the “Descending Lifeline”. In the event of a fire or other emergency that prevents you from exiting your room the normal way, this handy device is designed to turn you into an instant abseiler.

You unpack the line and attach it to the wall-mounted eye bolt, fasten the harness around your upper body, throw the reel out of the window and descend – as the instructions helpfully add – facing the wall!

We were on the seventh floor and I can imagine that many hotel guests would be hesitant to use this device, especially from higher floors, but I guess a fire would be a great motivator. The descending lifeline is an unusual and imaginative innovation.

Practical tips

There are plenty of ATMs in Seoul but, beware, not all of them accept foreign cards. So cash remains king and you should keep a handy amount at all times. However, practically all credit cards are accepted in restaurants, shops and accommodation.

English is widely spoken, more so than in Japan, for example, and the younger generation are particularly proficient. Excellent free wifi is available almost everywhere you go.

Must-See Attractions

Seoul is packed with attractions that showcase its unique blend of old and new.

Gyeongbokgung Palace: This stunning palace, built in 1395, is a must-visit. Don’t miss the changing of the guard ceremony every day at 10am and 2pm except Tuesday. Seoul has five palaces but we didn’t have time to visit them all. The other four, in descending order of awareness by visitors, are Changdeokgung, Deoksugung, Changgyeongung and Gyeonghuigung.

Insadong: This suburb is one of the best places in Seoul to experience authentic Korean culture with its wooden tea houses, award-winning Korean restaurants and boutique galleries of traditional Korean fine art. It also has souvenir and handicraft shops, antique stores and places that sell pottery and porcelain. We walked there from our hotel, straight up the main street called Samil-daero, taking only about 15 minutes to get there.

If you’re not as close to Insadong as we were you can take the Metro line 3 and get off at Anguk Station. Take exit 6 and go straight ahead for about 100 metres and then turn left into Insadong-gil, which is the start of the main shopping area. Insadong-gil is a pedestrian-friendly street where no vehicles are allowed from 10am to 10pm on certain days.

Bukchon Hanok Village: Visitors are free to wander through this traditional village, where beautifully preserved hanoks (traditional Korean houses) can be seen. It’s situated not far from Gyeongbokgung Palace.

N Seoul Tower: Offering panoramic views of the city, the 236.7-metre-high N Seoul Tower is a popular spot for both tourists and locals. The hike up Namsan Mountain will delight and challenge those so inclined, but the cable car will appeal to most visitors as it did to us.

Originally built in 1975 as a broadcasting tower, an observation deck was opened to the public in 1980 and the tower has since become one of the most visited tourist spots in Seoul, attracting millions of visitors each year. In 2005, major renovations were carried out including the addition of an LED light display on its exterior and creation of space inside for exhibitions and performances. Martial arts displays can also be viewed in the courtyard.

Culinary Delights

Korean barbecue is legendary and you can get it at restaurants where you either cook it yourself, which most locals do, or you can have the staff cook it for you. We opted for the latter and the photo shows how it’s done. Not all of the barbecue restaurants do this so be sure to ask before you sit down or make a reservation.

Some other traditional dishes are:

Kimchi: This fermented vegetable dish is a staple in Korean cuisine. Every meal is typically accompanied by a variety of kimchi.

Bulgogi: Marinated beef grilled to perfection, bulgogi will appeal to meat lovers. Enjoy it in a restaurant or cook it yourself at a barbecue place.

Bibimbap: A mixed rice dish topped with vegetables, meat, and a fried egg, bibimbap is both delicious and visually appealing.

Street Food: Myeongdong is the perfect place to sample street food. Try the orthographically challenging tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes), hotteok (sweet pancakes) and kimbap (Korean sushi rolls) from vendors.

Finally, there are two large markets – Dongdaemun and Namdaemun – as well as multiple smaller ones. There is so much to see in Seoul it’s impossible to pack it all into one feature.

Suitably impressed with what we had seen, we left Seoul on the Norwegian Spirit cruise ship bound for Japan. Seoul has become a very popular cruise port and since 2020 it has had an impressive new international passenger terminal. Like the airport, it is located at Incheon and is about one-and-a-half hours by taxi from downtown Seoul.

Discovering Seoul, Korea:
A First-Time Visit