County Clare, Connemara, Achill Island and Westport — in February, sometimes in the rain, sheep galore, and the best prawn mayonnaise sandwich of my life
County Clare, Connemara, Achill Island and Westport — in February, sometimes in the rain, sheep galore, and the best prawn mayonnaise sandwich of my life
When I first told people we were doing a road trip of the west coast of Ireland — in late February, with three children aged eight, five and three — the reactions were mixed. “Isn’t it always raining?” Most days, yes. “Won’t the kids find it boring?” Absolutely not. Ireland, particularly the wild Atlantic coast, turns out to be one of the best places you can possibly take young children. It is dramatic and green and ancient and cosy, and it forgives you completely for not having a plan.
We flew in and out of Dublin Airport, the only direct route from Geneva. Booked six months ahead, flights with Swiss came in at under €500 for all five of us. On arrival, we picked up a 7-seater automatic — just under €700 for 11 days including insurance — which I’d strongly recommend. The space and flexibility made all the difference with three kids in tow.
The trip was built around my sister’s wedding in Westport on March 6th, but we gave ourselves 11 days to properly explore the coast: three bases, four stops, a double rainbow over a deserted island, and the best prawn mayonnaise sandwich of my life.
TRIP AT A GLANCE
Duration: 11 days
Route: Dublin → Ennistymon (Clare) → Roundstone (Connemara) → Achill Island → Westport → Dublin
Travelling with: Three children aged 8, 5 and 3
Season: Late February / early March (low season)
Car hire: 7-seater automatic, under €700 for 11 days including insurance
Style: Slow travel — multiple nights in each base, short days, flexible pace
Most people drive straight past Ennistymon on the way to the Cliffs of Moher. Don’t. This small County Clare market town has a great high street, independent bookshops, a waterfall that runs right through the centre, and the kind of pub energy that makes you want to cancel your plans and stay another week. It was a perfect first base — unhurried and completely unpretentious.
We stayed at Falls Hotel & Spa, booking interconnecting rooms for €555 for three nights including breakfast. The breakfast room overlooks the cascades — a genuinely lovely start to each morning. There’s also a leisure centre with an indoor pool, sauna and jacuzzi, which the children made full use of. Pack swimming caps as well as costumes.
WHAT TO DO
The best sausage rolls in Ireland are reportedly at Hugo’s Bakery in nearby Lahinch. My husband and eldest made the pilgrimage on day one; we can confirm the reputation is deserved. Later that afternoon, we did the Glen Walk — a 1.5-hour riverside woodland trail that starts 5 minutes from the hotel, the trail is dotted with fairy houses tucked into tree roots and mossy banks. Unexpectedly magical, very manageable with small children, and one of those places that feels like a genuine discovery.
For the Cliffs of Moher, go mid-to-late afternoon — crowds are thin, the light is beautiful, and 90 minutes is exactly the right amount of time with kids. Wrap up warm and take a hat – it was very windy! The museum and short IMAX film just before the climb to see the views are also worth it and our children loved learning all about the wildlife through interactive games. From there, it’s a short drive to Doolin, where we headed to watch a stunning sun set across the Atlantic on Doolin Pier. As of mid-March, this is where the boats to the Aran Islands set off, a trip for another time. We had dinner at Gus O’Connor’s Pub roaring fire, walls covered in police badges from around the world, and a pint of Guinness that tastes like it was made for this exact moment. On the road between the two, keep an eye out for a Clare’s Jam Shop sign — a local man has been selling homemade jams and marmalades from his home for forty years. We left with several jars. These are the stops you don’t plan that you remember longest.
Cooley’s House is the local pub for cards and a Guinness in Ennistymon, and McDermott’s in Doolin does fish and chips that are hard to fault. Bring a deck of cards wherever you go — it’s the single best thing you can do with young children in an Irish pub.
TIP
Mid-to-late afternoon at the Cliffs of Moher is far quieter than the morning rush. 90 minutes is the perfect amount of time with young children.
Leaving Clare, take the longer route north through the Burren — a vast, otherworldly limestone landscape that feels unlike anywhere else in Ireland. Even under grey skies it’s striking. Don’t rush it.
A near-essential stop en route is Linnane’s Lobster Bar in New Quay, right on the water. We squeezed in last-minute at a window table and watched local divers heading in while the children fought over chips. I had the best prawn mayonnaise sandwich of my life. Book ahead if you can or take your chances — it’s worth it either way if you’re in the area.
The continue north along the Wild Atlantic Way all the way to Connemara. You’ll notice the iconic squiggly line on road signs and landmarks and our children loved pointing them out to us during the whole trip. Stock up at O’Sullivan’s Grocer before you head into Connemara — local honey, sourdough, and anything else that looks good. It’s that kind of shop.
Roundstone doesn’t try to be anything other than itself — a small village on a quay, a few pubs, some boats, and the wild boggy landscape of Connemara all around it. We arrived in light rain and were completely charmed regardless. Connemara in the rain is still extraordinary. Perhaps especially then.
We stayed in Fernwood Roundstone Quay House, a very well-equipped three-storey house right on the quay with uninterrupted sea views from the living room and two of the three bedrooms. A beautiful base. On arrival, before unpacking properly, we called into O’Dowd’s for a Guinness while the children settled with cards. This became the ritual of the trip.
CLIFDEN AND THE SKY ROAD
Clifden is the largest town in Connemara and worth a proper visit. Coyles Coffee is excellent — we liked it enough to bring beans home to Geneva, where they’ve since become a household staple. Despite the heavy rain on our first day in Connemara, we drove the Sky Road — a loop along a narrow peninsula with open Atlantic on both sides. Even in dark grey skies, it was dramatic. On a clear day it must be transcendent.
BALLYNAHINCH AND THE BOAT TRIP
The grounds of Ballynahinch Castle make for a beautiful riverside and lakeside walk, moody and atmospheric in the kind of weather Connemara does so well. As does a 1.5 walk to Rod’Lala to see the stunning coast with accompanying sheep. But the standout experience from our whole time in Roundstone — possibly from the entire trip — was an afternoon boat ride with a local guide named Damien, departing from the harbour. Book him here.
He took us out to the deserted island of Inishlacken: choppy water, the children taking turns at the helm, a little fishing, and then landing on a beach completely alone. A double rainbow appeared over the island as we walked. It was one of those experiences that feels almost too good to be real.
DON’T MISS THIS
Book a boat trip from Roundstone harbour to Inishlacken, even in low season. Damien is an excellent guide with a wealth of local knowledge — and his cute dog Max comes along for the ride.
End the day at Dog’s Bay for a late-afternoon walk — completely empty, golden light, one of those beaches that looks too beautiful to be real. Evenings in Roundstone are simple and easy: seafood chowder at O’Dowd’s, board games, cards, and — on at least one occasion — a takeaway Guinness to drink at home. They’ll pour one for you if you ask nicely. Just remember to return the glass.
DIAMOND HILL
The drive from Roundstone to Diamond Hill via Lough Inagh is worth doing slowly. Lakes, rivers, open hills — none of my photos did the views justice. The Diamond Hill lower loop in Connemara National Park takes about 1.5 hours and our children managed it without complaint — a mix of trail and boardwalk, with sea views that open up as you climb. Walk it anticlockwise: the ascent is gentler and the best views come gradually rather than all at once. And as a reward for children who complete it, a playground at the end, which was difficult to drag the kids away from before getting back in the car to Achill.
Ireland’s most westerly island is connected to the mainland by a bridge, which makes it easy to reach but no less remote-feeling when you arrive. In low season, stop at SuperValu just before the crossing — options on the island are limited and you’ll be grateful you did.
We stayed in a three-bedroom mountain cabin that I’d rank among the best Airbnbs I’ve booked in fifteen years of using the platform. Recently renovated with real care and taste, Mountain Cabin Achill had huge windows in the living room and dining room/kitchen looking directly onto Keel Beach and an outdoor space the children immediately colonised. Sheep wandered in occasionally. Nobody minded.
WHAT TO DO
Keel Beach has a woodfire saunas run by Sabhna Achill Saunas a very good way to start the day, particularly with a friend who’s driven from Dublin to join you on your birthday. Note that the tide is far out in early March, so factor in the walk to the waterline. Getting in is absolutely worth it.
Lunch at The Beehive is a must — a craft and food place that felt genuinely lucky to find open in early March. Fresh Achill salmon, excellent cakes, warm atmosphere. They also stock a lovely range of knitwear; my husband bought me a cream Aran jumper there, which I’ve since worn constantly. If you’re travelling from outside the EU, remember to ask for the tax back.
Afterwards, drive to Keem Beach. It regularly appears on lists of the world’s best beaches, and in early March it was entirely deserted. The drive there is dramatic — with plenty of sheep who needed encouragement to clear the road — and the beach itself is sheltered, golden-sanded and very green. It’s the filming location for The Banshees of Inisherin, which gives you some sense of the landscape.
Before leaving Achill, visit the Achill Experience Aquarium. It’s small and there are no tropical fish, but the guided tour was one of the best we’ve had anywhere — a passionate, knowledgeable guide who was brilliant with the children. Genuinely not to be missed.
GETTING TO WESTPORT
The drive from Achill to Westport via Dooega Beach and the Wild Atlantic Way is spectacular — huge Atlantic views, almost no traffic, and the freedom to stop whenever you want. If possible, do this drive as you enter Achill rather than leaving it, as the views are better heading west. Either direction is beautiful.
Westport is a handsome Georgian town — colourful, walkable, good energy. We were there for the wedding, but even without it, a night here is worth building into a west coast itinerary. We stayed at the beautiful 5* Grace Hotel, recently reopened and well positioned in the centre of town.
The grounds of Westport House are beautiful, with views towards Croagh Patrick and easy walking down to the sea. The adventure park on the estate turned out to be significantly better than expected — climbing, abseiling, a huge net park and high tunnel slides. Our three-year-old went down one particular slide approximately 36 times. My husband swam in the sea on both mornings.
After the wedding and a fabulous day 2 at The Quays with traditional Irish music, we drove back the 3 hours to Dublin Airport without a glitch on a Sunday morning and flew home to Geneva.
I came back from Ireland thinking it might be one of the most underrated places to travel with young children. The west coast rewards slowing down — the landscapes are dramatic enough to hold your attention without needing to rush between sights, the towns are small and manageable, and the pubs are genuinely welcoming to families. The weather is part of the experience rather than a problem to solve. Lean into it.
What made it work for us:
• Multiple nights in each base — no daily packing and unpacking
• A relaxed daily pace with one or two things rather than a full itinerary
• Mixing big outdoor days with cosy afternoons in
• A 7-seater with plenty of boot space for wet kit and tired children
• Always cards.
• Book your car early. A 7-seater automatic made the whole trip easier. Under €700 for 11 days including insurance.
• Eat at Linnane’s Lobster Bar. New Quay, en route to Connemara. Book if you can.
• Don’t skip the roadside signs for local shops or the Wild Atlantic Way. You might be missing out on quality food and lovely exchanges with locals as well as hidden landmarks.
• Stock up before Achill. SuperValu just before the bridge is your friend in low season.
• Walk Diamond Hill anticlockwise. Gentler ascent, better views.
• Book the Roundstone boat trip. With Damien. To Inishlacken. Even in choppy weather. Especially in choppy weather.
• Visit Achill Aquarium. Small but exceptional. The best guided tour we’ve had anywhere.
Bring cards. The single greatest piece of family travel kit for Irish pub visits.
Here’s the full route from Dublin Airport and back, with all four stops:
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